Day 1 began with an early morning wake-up call and a healthy breakfast at the Cesar Park Hotel in Buenos Aires. For the first time, we had a glimpse of the 146 other people who will be our shipmates for the next ten days. They hail from all parts of the world including Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Pakistan, Switzerland, Thailand, the United Arab Emirates and the United Kingdom. My mother and I expected a mostly older crowd, but a large age range is represented: from a ten-year old boy to an 80 year old woman who has dreamed of visiting Antarctica for many years.
Our trip is called an expedition for a reason. Despite the best-laid plans by the captain and the leaders of the expedition, our activities can change on a moment’s notice due to inclement weather, a sighting of an iceberg or a pod of whales. We are ready to pursue adventure! I am all for that – the best way to travel is with a vague final destination that gives you direction while keeping in mind that the mission is the discovery of the unknown and the unexpected during the journey itself.
So we boarded a bus to Buenos Aires’ local airport for a flight to Ushuaia, the southernmost populated point of South America. Four hours of flying time later, our plane descended slowly through the snow-capped peaks of the Andes, banked right and settled in for a landing at a narrow air strip. The airport, which was constructed in 1997, replaced what was previously considered one of the most dangerous airports in the world due to the high winds and short runway. (An adventure I am glad I do not have to participate in!)
From there, a second bus took us slowly through the town of Ushuaia, a growing town of 60,000 people whose main economic activities are fishing and Antarctica-related tourism, although the waters, islands and parks of the area hold great appeal for lovers of the outdoors as well. For example, the national park of Tierra del Fuego offers hiking, camping and fishing.
Tierra del Fuego is Spanish for the “Land of Fire”. It is so named because when early explorers first sighted it, they observed smoke rising from the hills. The indigenous people who tended the fires, the Yamanas, considered fire to be an integral part of their culture given the intense cold and high levels of precipitation from rain and snow year round in the region. In fact, the Yamanas chose to wear very little because they found wet clothing made them more susceptible to illness. So they opted to keep themselves warm by building fires everywhere they went (even on their boats!) as they went hunting for food such as sea lion and local fish.
The National Park of Tierra del Fuego has an unusual characteristic. First, due to the rocky landscape, its trees have shallow roots and often collapse under heavy snow conditions. Then, because of the extremely cold climate, it takes a long time for these dead trees to decompose – over 300 years! The slow growing conditions also mean that the same trees can take up to 100 years to reach their full height.
The park is also home to the beginning or ending point of the Pan-American Highway. The highway runs between Fairbanks, Alaska and this national park at the southernmost point of the road system in South America. There are an adventurous few with plenty of time on their hands who have even driven its entire length. Any vehicle qualifies: a mobile home, a motorcycle or a bicycle! I had heard of this during my backpacking trip through Mexico and Central America ten years ago; I met two English cyclists raising money for charity (their now-defunct website was www.cyclingwithoutborders.com). I did not ask our guide how travellers manage to cross the Darien Gap, a stretch of dense and dangerous jungle straddling the border between Panama and Colombia, through which the Pan American Highway does not pass.
At the end of our second bus journey, we boarded a catamaran for lunch and a tour of the Beagle Channel, a 180km stretch of salt water which connects the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. The area is dotted with mountainous islands and depending on the direction in which you look they either belong to Argentina or its next door neighbour Chile. In the 1980s, a dispute over who owned this area brought Argentina and Chile to the brink of war (a treaty of “peace and friendship” was later signed).
While cruising the Channel, we got to know some of our our fellow travelers. I even met two Rotarians who were very familiar with the Peace Fellowship program of which I am an alumnus. It’s a small world! We learned more about Tierra del Fuego and the wildlife of the region. During the three hour tour, we saw birds such as Kelp Geese, the Chilean Skua and the Blue-eyed Shag. We also saw South American sea lions, including one who had recently given birth to a pup and was using it as a chin rest. :) At the mid-point of our trip, we circled around this lighthouse (see inset) for our return.
Back in Ushuaia, we embarked on our ship and checked in to our cabin, which was much bigger and more luxurious than I could ever have imagined! It has a comfortable working space and a wide window which looks out on to the water. It is from here that I have been writing my blog posts and organising the nearly 200 photos I have taken so far.
In the first couple of hours on board, we attended an orientation and briefing sessions about emergency evacuation procedures, meals and some of the activities that await us in the coming days.
The public address system on board the ship is used not only to announce meals and briefings but to give us notice if something exciting is spotted. It is piped directly into your cabin and cannot be turned off. Sleep is a luxury, they say. :)
Argentina is the starting point for many voyages to Antarctica as it offers one of the closest points from which a ship can travel to the Antarctic Peninsula, only 800km away. Travelling to the continent from Australia is twice that distance, and from the southernmost tip of Africa the distance is fivefold greater. Our main touring range will be inside the 55th and 65th latitudes south and we will travel for 36 hours to reach the peninsula.
Our journey will begin by sailing across the Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula. The Passage is named for Sir Francis Drake, a famous English explorer, who first reached this place in 1577. It is known for some of the roughest seas in the region. My mother and I both swallowed a pill of anti-seasickness medication in the hopes that it would help us weather the ride.
At the convergence of the Antarctic and sub-Antarctic currents, the water temperature will drop and this will cause the air to cool. Soon, temperatures outside will drop to freezing and below that, depending on the weather. Currently, the sun rises at about 4:30am and sets at about 10pm. On our approach to Antarctica, I am told that this will gradually increase to the point where we will have nearly 24 hours of daylight.